I really wish I had shot & reviewed those wide aperture lens more often.
Huge benefit in terms of image quality STRAIGHT out of the camera with minial processing.
- Color is MUCH more vibrant.
- Shallow DOF, subject isolation is much easier.
- Regardless of how shitty the body is.
50mm 1.8 is great.
That Sigma 50-100 1.8 is a VERY seriously sickly awesome lens too.
I really wish MNI folks could clarify this a bit but:
MincTool: is a set of commandline tools (very low level minc related IO tools like DICOM2MNC conversion etc).
MincToolKit: is a collectiction/pack of various software pieces (e.g. larger than just commandline tools) to help deal with image processing (including, normalization tools ANT, N3, etc but it ALSO includes MincTool above (e.g. those commandline tools).
MincToolKit v2: is the updated collection of above. Use this. You most likely want to comiple everything all together as MINCLibrary is at the core of everything so for example, just try to compile DCM2MNC won’t work unless you have the MINCLibrary somewhere active.
All this could have been way more simplified. Hopefully you are less confused than before…
I have been doing some photography for a while as a casual hobbit with about 50K on my 60D and 14k on my T3i (mostly probably due to my timelapse). I do mostly shitty shots but I am trying to get better. Here are some lessons I learned. Take what you will.
Some cheap a f lens I shoot with:
- EF 50mm 1.8
- EF 70-300mm IS USM
- EFS 10-17mm IS STM
- EF 28-135mm IS USM (gotta be my least favourite lens)
- Kit 18-55 I, II
- if you want speaker shots, take 70-300 or something longer to get some nice portraits without disrupting everyone in the conference.
- Fast lense like 50mm F1.8 for when you can get close and personal and not interupting everyone.
- Tripod is impractical due to mobility. Maybe monopole.
- Use flash if you can… but as a silent transparent observer, I try to bring the least amount of disruptions
- Timelapse of beaches, construction sites, clouds, etc
- Wide angel: 10mm to 17mm for APSC if you can.
- Make sure MagicLantern is installed
- It is best if you can get a battery grip (even shitty ones costint $15 is okay as its extra battery draining will be offset by the extra battery somewhat.. or you can spend $150+ get the legit one. )
- OR if in door, get a socket power plugin
- IF doing anything near window/through window, ensure 1) in door light is never one or else you will ruin the shot. 2) maybe longer lens can mitigate that but you are losing views.
- Penthouse views
- Constructions site views
- Offshore cruise/short boat ride
- Mid to long.
- Long (70+) really help with isolating things you actually want to see off shore.
- Do not bring wide. Usually they make everything look way too small, unless you are like visiting the great LeShan Budha and cruising right down to its knee or something.
- This is where slower lens shine.
- boat tour around liberty island.
- Building / Indoor/Under bridge / downtown / skyscrpter:
- taking photo of the brooklyn bridge
- take image of trump towel underneath it
- Flight takeoff/landing:
- Fast Lense: 1.8 50mm
- Wide angle so you can really take some nice views
- Do not bring anything longer than 70mm due to 1) lense size around the seat, 2) motion blur, low light.
- Insect/flower/ closerups:
- Any macro obviously….
- 50mm 1.8 works too.
- Antyhing fast tbh
- Use point focus, and use BACK BUTTON FOCUS!
- Get a proper strap like those black rapid but there are far cheaper ones than those…
- Always bring a spare battery not just because you might run out but because battery can die mid way before reaching 50% even!
- a dirt cheap body like T3i or something like is probably better than an idle lens sitting around.
- Cap do not go well with SLR.
- Try to shoot enough image with any gear such that that a shutter fix is required is better than buying the best gear and unable lift them or always lament shitty not focused image. AI will help rate images down the road.
- Throw away the lens cap. Put any filter on. Shitty filter is as bad as damaged front element for lense but… even damagned front element lens actually see VERY little artefacts so put on any filter just to keep fingers out.
- Shoot and forget. Then when you go back to process them, your mind will wonder WTF you were thinking shooting that one and crop it properly. All will be well.
- Do not ride bike with your SLR. It will make biking uncomfortable and you will have less focus taking pictures.
- Composition trumps lens, and just about everything. Shitty composition will not be saved by better equipment, camera, subjects, lighting etc. Post processing MAYBE can save it but usually not worth the time.
- Shoot what you like but you don’t have to like what you shot.
Oh gosh this took me literally a FULL day to resolve yet so freaking stupid.
For those of you trying to run Python/Jupyter and get the annoying cmdlet not found error etc but you can start without issue, this is a pathing problem BUT an odd one. So…
Apparently you will need to add C:\ProgramData\Anaconda3 (for python) and C:\ProgramData\Anaconda3\Scripts and most importantly C:\ProgramData\Anaconda3\Library\bin (for Jupyter) for Powershell to recognize Python/Jupyter at the commandline level. I cannot believe this was not spelt out elsewhere… and I had to crawl StackExchange forever… Also not sure why even after reinstall Anaconda, it still did not path properly
Get http://patheditor2.codeplex.com/ to make it MUCH easier to work with… Best of luck.
So yeah, as I have feared, the old method worked okay for a few weeks but proved completely unreliable under consistent uses depsite optimal appearance in the first few weeks. The fact that I also dropped it one more time also didn’t help while tryign out VR.
Seriously considering Note 8 now that ZeroLemon has let loose the powerpack for it. But gotta save money first….
Nothing much to add here. Long term stability test out. Camera tests out. Boot looped only once upon impact. No other noticeable negative impact if oven time and temperature is controlled tightly and no directly heat source exposure.
Heat reflow might be recommended on a semi annual basis to ensure device circuitry integrity…. Sigh the price of being a Samsung fan….
So the wifi Intel dual band wireless access 7265 antenna cable came loose again and armed with the proper tool and technique and knowledge I had to reattach the cable once more. I got a better chance to take even better shots than last time. For a almost 2k laptop, this really shouldnt be happening in addition to its mobo death within warranty period. As they say… Tape usually fix everything…
Also I just noticed that the cable that came off is most likely the main signal cable….. Damn…
So… My main device has not yet bootlooped not even once after I gently roasted the phone.
The restored/ device did boot and lockup once and had to be completely cooled down and restart the next day to restore functionalities. Accidental drop definitely has major impact on device performance.
I FINALLY solved the issue with my HP Spectre x360 wifi range issue!
Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC7265 is working but my signal range is usualy about 10m open air and I have been like…. WTF?
I even already bought a second USB internet adapter just to fix this problem.
Today I saw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwdDM3sVJ5k&t=159s on Andy’s guide about how to tighten the hinge (which I noticed the moment I bought this computer… but I always thought it was by design!
GUESS what I found?
One wire from the wireless adapter was loose NO WONDER I ran into issue with Wifi range. HELL YEAH. Literally took me a year to open up the PC and find the problem.
Seriously man… like… WHY?
I hope if you are using HP Spextre x360 and ever ran into similar issue, you will open your case up (T5) and tighten the hinges and make sure 50% of your wifi signal is coming through XD.
Notice that little fucker pointing it’s finger at you near the chrome hinge on the left? Yeah…. Left one is not connected!
Loose hinge might be the first cause of why wire is loose in the first place! Pretty sure it is a design flaw.
Zero restart. Camera lense still works great. I will heat reflowing every single electronic that suddenly dies (probably flip them upside down first)